Friday, 10 May 2013

How to do Timelapse

How to do Timelapse

Link to PictureCorrect Photography Tips

How to do Timelapse

Posted: 09 May 2013 06:13 PM PDT

All of us have seen timelapse photography sequences. Timelapses of sunsets, construction, the Aurora Borealis, etc. They’re beautiful, often very dramatic, and the best part is that they’re not very hard to do. Potentially, they can get very difficult depending on the changing light and you subject(s). But capturing a basic timelapse is actually very simple. Photographer Richard Harrington goes through all the basics you need to get started taking your own timelapse videos. Everything from the equipment you’ll need, to controlling the light, to making your videos look great in post (for those of you reading this by email, the seminar can be seen here):

Basic equipment you will need:

  • Intervalometer – This is the device that will allow you to take time-lapse shots. It lets you set how many shots you want and how long you want to shoot. Some cameras have built-in intervalometers. If yours does not, you can buy an external intervalometer .
  • Sturdy Tripod – You do not want your camera to move at all during your timelapse. Every frame should match up, and if you bump your camera, or if the wind blows it over, or if your tripod head creeps down, then your timelapse will be ruined (or at least extremely difficult to fix in post.)
  • High-speed Memory Cards – Since you’ll be taking a lot of photos, you need a memory card that can write information very quickly. Without a fast card, your camera’s buffer will fill up. Once it starts to get full, it may take photos slower, or stop taking photos until the queue of previous photos has been written.
  • Calculator – There’s a little math involved in figuring out how long you want your timelapse to be and how often you need to take a shot. If you can’t quite figure it out, there’s an app for that.
  • Extra Battery Power – Whether you have an extra battery grip or a way to plug your camera into a power outlet, you’ll need some extra juice for those extended timelapses.
  • Weather Protection – If you’re going to be shooting outside for days, or shooting in the rain, make sure your camera is safe from the elements.
night time timelapse

Using a slow shutter speed can create light streaks from moving cars

For even more information & training on how to make a timelapse


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Article from: PictureCorrect Photography Tips

The Path of an Outdoor Photographer

Posted: 09 May 2013 01:36 PM PDT

For Tim Kemple, becoming an outdoor photographer was a natural transition into adulthood. He grew up in the mountainside, spending his free days exploring with his family and friends. Upon graduating from university, he took up residence in an old, used RV he purchased on eBay and roamed freely across the country. Kemple documented his journey, photographing his rock climbing friends, and capturing the natural beauty he found during his travels. With an apparent knack for photography, Kemple began getting work as a commercial photographer. Listen to his inspiring story here (for those of you reading this by email, the video can be seen here):

Broadening his horizons, Kemple was spending time in Chamonix, France when he received a telephone call from Black Diamond, a leading outdoor outfitters manufacturer, asking if he would be available to take some photographs for an upcoming campaign.

landscape photography

“I started out shooting my friends climbing and running around in the mountains (Via Fstoppers). From there I started getting more commercial clients, I started getting hired to assignments for magazines and photoshoots for the bigger outdoor brands.”

For Further Training on Outdoor Photography:

There is no single recipe for a great outdoor image.  Every scene is different, and each photographer employs a unique style and creative spin on the subject. But there are some key ingredients that this new book covers. In this guide, the author takes you behind-the-scenes for 12 adventure and outdoor images. Remember to use the discount code picturecorrect20 for a discount.

It can be found here: Behind the Action


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Article from: PictureCorrect Photography Tips

The Difference Between Incident and Spot Meters

Posted: 09 May 2013 10:30 AM PDT

Hand-held light meters may seem like old technology compared to our modern-day DSLRs, but they are still widely used by many photographers and most cinematographers. Light meters give an accurate reading of the surrounding light so that you can properly exposure your scene. However, there are different types of light meters which can give you different readings depending on the situation. Each has their own purpose and you may not rely on a single type to determine the exposure for every scene (for those of you reading this by email, the video can be seen here):

Though this video opens much like a political ad campaign and ends like an episode of Mr. Rogers, it provides some very important and useful knowledge. Light meters are poorly understood by those who don’t use them or understand the Zone System, but Vargo does a good job of explaining the differences between incident and spot meters and how each can be used successfully.

Incident meters are great for sunny days and situations in which your subject is partly in light and partly in shadow because it reads the light through a 3D dome. A flat disk reading works poorly in these situations because it is either all in shadow or all in light (Via Petapixel). The spot meter is perhaps the best because you can simply point it at the area for which you want to properly expose as neutral, and it is great when your subject is far away or in a very complex lighting situation.

gray card incident meter reading

Since a spot meter wants to expose things at neutral gray, it gives a reading of f/22 to compensate for the bright white card

zone system

The Zone System assigns numerical values to areas with different levels of brightness


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Article from: PictureCorrect Photography Tips

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