Sunday, 15 September 2013

Photography Histogram Explained

Photography Histogram Explained

Link to PictureCorrect Photography Tips

Photography Histogram Explained

Posted: 14 Sep 2013 11:48 PM PDT

Today’s DSLR photo tip, the photo histogram explained, involves using the (gulp) histogram. This is another of those features found on most of the higher end cameras that you probably aren’t using. But you should!

What is the histogram?

The photo histogram is that graph that looks like a mountain range with spikes shooting up at seemingly random places. The scary thing is that when you see it, it looks really technical. Most of us immediately try for the land speed record in turning it off.

photo histogram

“Correct Histogram” captured by Bruce

It really isn’t that hard or confusing. Plus, it can go a long way to getting better exposure on our images.

All the histogram does is graphically display the tonal ranges in your photo from the darkest black areas to the lightest white areas. The left side is for black, the right side is for white.

Why should we use the histogram?

Why not just look at our LCD and make adjustments from there? Glad you asked…

I’ve written other articles (discussing picture controls) where I’ve said that the LCD is not accurate. What you are seeing on the LCD screen is not necessarily what is going to show up on your computer. It is really easy to do a whole series of photos and get home only to discover that your masterpiece is under- or overexposed and not at all what you were expecting.

Sometimes exposure can be fixed (after hours and hours in Photoshop); sometimes it can’t. If the shadow or highlight details weren’t captured, they just aren’t there to be “fixed”.

Rule of thumb: Use your LCD to check for composition. Use your histogram to check for exposure.

The initial step to understanding how to use a histogram is to drag out your camera’s manual and figure out how to turn it on in playback mode so that you can see both the histogram and the picture. Reading your manual could easily be the most complex part of the operation. This is another of those times when reading the manual (ten minutes of sheer boredom) can dramatically improve your photography–forever.

Once you’ve learned how to turn on your histogram, take a few shots of something.

  1. For this test run, find a subject that is mostly neutral in tone and not mostly dark or light. Take a correctly exposed, “neutral” shot.
  2. Take your first test shot by underexposing your next photo. Check out the histogram. See how the spikes are more to the left hand side of the screen? That’s the side that shows the dark areas of a photo, and since this one is underexposed, it is darker than normal.
  3. Now take a photo of the same subject, but greatly overexpose it. See how the histogram spikes have shifted to the right side? That is the side dealing with the light areas in your photo.
  4. Now look at your original “correctly exposed” photo. The spikes are likely to be more in the middle area.

Spikes at either end of the spectrum, touching the edges of the histogram, tend to indicate a photo that is over- or underexposed, and you will want to make adjustments–but not always.

Caution: the temptation at this point is to automatically set every photo so that the histogram spikes are in the middle. This would NOT be correct. Each photo has its own right or wrong settings, determined by the subject matter and your artistic vision:

  • If you are making a photo showing a lot of snow, a histogram heavily skewed to the right is correct.
  • A scene of a coal bin would correctly produce a histogram heavily skewed to the left.
  • A sunset silhouette will give you spikes on both the left AND right, with a huge dip in the center.
  • A scene with a lot of neutral tones will give us a bell curve in the center.

Experiment with this for a few minutes, and you will quickly understand how histograms work.

histogram on camera

“Out and About Again” captured by Carl Jones

Then, when you are shooting, you will instantly see where your photos can be improved and make the adjustments to your settings before it’s too late. Remember, in Photoshop you can adjust the lightness and darkness of a photo, but you can’t add detail that was never captured.

Today’s challenge is to take this DSLR photo tip–the photo histogram explained–and practice with using your camera’s histogram. It will make a good weekend project for you, and if you want to start winning photo contests, it is worth the effort to get comfortable with using histograms.

About the Author:
Dan Eitreim writes for ontargetphototraining dot com (insert link). He has been a professional photographer in Southern California for over 20 years. His philosophy is that learning photography is easy if you know a few tried and true strategies.


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A Commercial Fine Art Photographer Shares His Story (Video)

Posted: 14 Sep 2013 07:12 PM PDT

The road to a career in photography seems to be different for everyone. Some photographers see their endpoint from the beginning, while others seem to fall into their work without any preconceived notions about where it will take them.

Commercial fine art photographer David LaChapelle discovered photography in high school and never stopped creating his unique images. Take a look inside this brilliant photographer’s mind and his studio as he shares the story behind his success:

LaChapelle says that photography, for him, was never intended to be a source of fame or fortune. He simply wanted to create beauty and honesty. At the age of 18, his love of nightclubs brought him to New York City, where he’s spent much of his teen years when not in school. Soon after, he had his first photography show in a friend’s loft. These first images were black and white and exhibited his experimentation with bleaching on prints, metaphysical themes, and nude figuratives. He had his second show soon after, and then began taking assignments.

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Those first assignments were exciting. He was meeting interesting people and being published in magazines. He took the first published photograph of the Beastie Boys and the last portrait of Andy Warhol before the artist’s death.

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Andy Warhol, Last Sitting, November

David LaChapelle’s more current work is a feast for the eyes. He photographs celebrities on highly saturated, surreal sets that he builds and reuses in his Los Angeles studio. He strives for his photos to have the same impact on his audiences as music has on listeners. He wants to engage and connect with his viewers through his art so that it stays with them.

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LaChapelle says his career has been an unplanned journey. The key to his success was to be true to himself by producing images that he found beautiful.

“I never wanted to create more confusion or darkness or ugly things.”


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Article from: PictureCorrect Photography Tips

Using Off-Camera Flash with Mirrorless Cameras (Video)

Posted: 14 Sep 2013 12:50 PM PDT

If you’re looking for a great off-camera flash tutorial, look no further. Whether you use a mirrorless camera or not, photographer Joe Brady will give you a run down on everything strobe related: single flash, multiple flash, light meters, camera settings for flash, high-key lighting, low-key lighting, you name it. Not only does Brady concisely explain everything while using a model and strobes to give you a clear visual, but between each of his mini-tutorial shoots he also does a Q&A session. This helps answer a lot of questions about the gear, settings, and reasons for the techniques:

Lighting Tools That Can Add to Your Images:

  • Reflector – A reflector is a great tool for using with either natural or artificial light. Whether you use it to bounce light and highlight your subject, or just to fill in shadows, a reflector can be a great low-cost investment. They also come in many different colors and finishes that affect the color and amount of light they reflect.
  • Light Meter – A light meter is not necessary for using strobes, but it can help take out some of the guesswork. They may seem a bit complicated at first, but once you understand how they work it can make your shooting much more efficient.
  • Umbrella – Umbrellas can help spread light over your subject and create a much softer light since it’s reflected rather than direct.
  • Gels – These little pieces of plastic come in a variety of colors, allowing you to create warmer or cooler tones in your images, or create dramatic colored highlights.
  • Snoot – There are many attachments that you can add to your flash to affect the light it produces. One of these is called a snoot which is a long cylindrical or rectangular tube that allows you to create a spot of light and reduce the amount of light spillage.
mirrorless camera strobe flash tutorial

Brady explains how to create high-key lighting

Background is another important element to keep in mind when shooting with strobes. Some factors that you should consider when choosing a background is the texture, color, whether you’ll be lighting the background, and how well your subject will be separated from the background.


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Article from: PictureCorrect Photography Tips

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