Saturday 7 September 2013

Using Flash Photography Along with Ambient Light

Using Flash Photography Along with Ambient Light

Link to PictureCorrect Photography Tips

Using Flash Photography Along with Ambient Light

Posted: 06 Sep 2013 04:44 PM PDT

Final Reminder: Only 1 day left! in the deal on: Lighting Asylum, Take Control of Your Flash

With careful use of flash, you can make your photos look natural as though no artificial lighting had been used. Certain flash photography techniques can enhance the photo by further reducing contrast while looking very natural.

flash photography and ambient light

Photo captured by Deneb Catalan (Click Image to See More From Deneb Catalan)

It as been a dream of all photographers to look for the balance in lighting whenever they photograph a subject and most of the time the quality of available light isn’t always perfect. I will share my experience in making use of flash wisely I am able to enhance my photo rather than by just using the available ambient light.

Before we get started let me clarify a few things with regards to my flash photography techniques that I will be sharing with you.

  • Let me define the term flash in this article – it is what some people call “Speedlight” which is the add on flash mounted on the camera hot – shoe type and not either the studio strobe type of flash or the pop-up flash build in the camera..
  • The flash photography techniques I’m writing in this article are mostly applicable for “on the field” or “on the move” photography and not studio photography.
  • I’m a user of Nikon D-SLR and Speedlight, some example of my photography work shown here are not a standard recipe as each camera system may have a slide different reading hence require some slide adjustment.

Ambient Light plus Flash Photography

I use flash most of the time but using flash does not mean you will spoil the ambient light thus making the photo looking unnatural. Why just use available light alone if your photograph turns out to be horrible. I will show you by understanding some essential techniques, mixing ambient light with flash you can make a better image.

By using the flash I will be able to highlight the shadow areas and avoid shadows under the subject’s eyebrows thus making it a better photo than it would have been without flash. But this does not mean that the image will turn up flat. Make sure you get your reading right.

flash photography tips

Photo captured by Aleksey Yurchenko (Click Image to See More From Aleksey Yurchenko)

Let’s try two examples:

1. Say you are taking a wedding couple in a shaded park under a shade with a sunlit background:-

  • Shoot in manual mode because you need to be in control of your exposure metering for accuracy and consistency.
  • Meter for the ambient light, get your exposure right, turn off your flash and take a test shot. With the correct exposure you will get a perfect natural surroundings but the wedding couple will be little under exposed or with some shadows around their faces.
  • Now turn on your flash and adjust your flash to TTL-BL mode which balance flash automatically with ambient light (as I’m using Nikon). Adjust your flash compensation. Start from 0 EV compensation and slowly go up until plus 1.7 EV. How much is enough? There is no one correct answer to that as it depends how much flash you need to use as a fill in flash. In this example you surely need a stronger fill-flash to match the sunlit background.

2. Say you are taking the bride out door

  • Again always shoot on manual mode.
  • Meter correctly for the available light.
  • Adjust your flash to TTL-BL mode. As for out door, I usually start from -1.3 EV because Nikon Speedlights on TTL-BL mode balance flash automatically with ambient light and I will always shoot with flash firing straight on. The real idea is to use the flash as a fill-light only and to lift the shadows.
ambient light photography

“wedding” captured by Konstantin Koreshkov (Click Image to See More From Konstantin Koreshkov)

The above two examples clearly tells you by just adding flash with the correct exposure set by reading the ambient light together with the right amount of flash value to be fired you will have a perfect and balance natural looking image. Who says by using flash it will look unnatural and spoil the ambient light?

About the Author
This article was written by Affendy Ahmad.

For Further Training on Professional Flash Photography:

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Interesting Photo of the Day: Fisheye View of Climbers Descending Mount Rainier

Posted: 06 Sep 2013 02:14 PM PDT

At 14,410 feet, Mount Rainier is Washington's towering fourteener (14er), nestled between many other prominent peaks in Rainier National Park. Despite being one of the most dangerous volcanoes in the world and one of the most treacherous alpine climbs in the United States with its many crevasses and glaciers, Mount Rainier is a popular mountaineering challenge among North Americans; on average, it hosts 10,000 summit attempts per year, only half of which are successful due to harsh weather conditions and frequent avalanches. One climber captured this photo of his team descending the mountain along the Disappointment Cleaver route, warmed by one of Rainier's famous sunrises:

mount rainier fish-eye lens

Fisheye view of climbers descending Mount Rainier (via Imgur, click to see full size)

No, the curvature of the horizon in this photo is not natural. Rather, this effect was accomplished through the use of a fisheye lens, an extreme wide-angle lens that adds creative distortions to photographs. The fisheye lens was originally developed for meteorology and astrophotography, since it allowed meteorologists to capture the formation of clouds and astrophotographers to capture the spherical shape of planets in conjunction with the movement of stars.

While the fisheye lens has a controversial reputation among landscape photographers, take a look at the photograph without spherical distortion:

mount rainier without fish-eye

Without the fisheye effect, the shot is less impressive. (via Imgur, click to see full size)

Perhaps the fisheye lens does breach the bounds of reality, but spherical distortion clearly benefits the shot, infusing the photo with a certain vastness that shouts, "We really are on top of the world!"


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Article from: PictureCorrect Photography Tips

Adobe Answers Photographer’s Uproar with Low Cost Bundle

Posted: 06 Sep 2013 01:33 PM PDT

Back in May, Adobe made the decision to end perpetual licensing on some of its software (most notably Photoshop), forcing many users to convert to the subscription based Creative Cloud option. This meant no more paying a one time fee for Photoshop and using it as much as you like. If users wanted to use the lastest versions of Photoshop and other Adobe Suite applications, they now had to subscribe for $49.99 a month for access to all apps or $19.99 a month for a single app. As you can imagine, this did not go over well with many photographers and other Adobe product users.

Adobe bundle for photographers

Adobe bundle for photographers

Overwhelmed in a sea of complaints and with a petition to reinstate the perpetual license model collecting a solid 39,000 signatures, Adobe presented a new bundle for photographers at the annual Photoshop World conference. The new deal is still subscription based, but includes the following perks:

  • A $9.99 monthly price (with an minimum one-year subscription)
  • Access to Photoshop CC and Lightroom 5
  • 20 GB of online storage
  • A Behance Prosite membership

However, the deal comes with three constraints: First of all, you must already have a version of Photoshop, CS3 or later. Secondly, if you want to keep your $9.99 price, you have to sign up by December 31. Lastly, it is subscription based and you cannot end your subscription without also ending your $9.99 price guarantee.

For those who lashed out against Adobe’s unfavorable decision in May, now may be the time to reconsider. The $9.99 price tag will reaming locked in forever for those who stay within the above constraints.


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How a Car Camera Rig Works in Automotive Photography (Video)

Posted: 06 Sep 2013 12:15 PM PDT

Car camera rigs are created for the purpose of photographing moving cars. Oftentimes, these exposure will last several seconds so that the background is blurred while the car is nice and sharp. The trick is creating a rig that’s stable enough to hold that camera still for those few precious seconds while the car is moving. In this video, photographer Andrew Whyte pushes the limit of his rig by attempting a one-minute long exposure:

Tricks to Nailing a Good Long Exposure Car Shot:

  • Low ISO – This helps you accomplish two things. One, it allows you to increase amount of time the shutter stays open at any given aperture and, two, it keeps the noise levels to a minimum.
  • Sturdy Rig – A flimsy rig will bounce up and down as the car moves, resulting in a blurry image. Creating a rig that’s long enough to hold your camera out in front of the car and not bounce is the tricky part.
  • Correct Exposure – Getting a correct exposure with the right amount of background blur can be a bit of a trial and error game. For a technical setup like this, it’s probably best to leave the auto functions off and manually set your exposure.
  • Too Much Light – If you’re attempting to capture a long exposure during the day, you’ll probably find that, even with your aperture closed down all the way and your ISO set to its lowest setting, you still won’t be able to get a long shutter speed. The easiest solution to this is to use an ND filter. This will cut down on the amount of light entering your camera without affecting anything else.
car camer rig one minute exposure long

Unedited image: very sharp for a one-minute exposure

“Most people who’re going to be shooting in a daytime rig shot are going to be pushed for five, eight, maybe ten seconds maximum, and at that sort of level they’re going to be really scrutinizing their images. We’ve pushed it to a minute, and the result is certainly acceptable given the amount of input that we’ve done”


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Article from: PictureCorrect Photography Tips

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