Monday, 4 November 2013

How to Use Bulb Mode on a Camera

How to Use Bulb Mode on a Camera

Link to PictureCorrect Photography Tips

How to Use Bulb Mode on a Camera

Posted: 03 Nov 2013 04:45 PM PST

There is a special setting on all DSLR cameras that allows the photographer to go beyond the longest automatic shutter speed setting of 30 seconds. In fact, this special setting allows infinitely longs exposures to be made. This is the Bulb setting, or Bulb exposure mode.

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“Busy Street” captured by Boyet Abergos (Click Image to See More From Boyet Abergos)

The shutter speed range on a DSLR camera finishes at 30 seconds. One click below that selection is Bulb, which allows the photographer to manually hold the shutter open for as long as is required as the shutter button is pressed down. The camera bulb exposure setting is only available in Manual mode.

The Bulb mode is basically a creative feature. It allows shots to be taken that are minutes long, rather than seconds. A typical image to capture using this feature is one of star trails when the night sky is clear. Simply aim the camera to the north or south celestial pole, depending on which hemisphere you live.

Another common image to capture is of the trails of vehicle lights when it is dark. These moving lights will create artistic streaks of white and red patterns emitted from the head lights and tail lights of passing traffic. If you are near a traffic junction you may capture orange streaks from indicator lights. And if you’re lucky enough, you may get a streak of blue from the flashing light of an emergency vehicle.

Here then are the three things you must do in order to shoot in Bulb mode, in other words, with the camera’s shutter open:

  • Use a Tripod: Attach the camera to a tripod in order to ensure that no camera movement will ruin the shot. You don’t have to use a tripod so long as the camera is on a solid base, like a wall. Turn off the any anti-shake mechanisms you may might have on your camera or on the lens.
  • Use a Remote Shutter Release: A remote shutter release will prevent vibrations ruining the shot as you press the shutter button. No matter how careful you are, you will always cause a tiny bit of vibration as you depress the shutter button. That doesn’t matter with fast shutter speeds, but in Bulb mode you will record vibrations, however small. If you don’t have a remote cable, use the camera’s built-in self-timer delay, which is just as effective. A two second delay will be adequate.
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“Steel Wool Orb” captured by Johnny Dickerson (Click Image to See More From Johnny Dickerson)

Switch to Manual Mode: Since metering is completely irrelevant when using the Bulb exposure setting, switch the camera to its Manual mode. Next, choose an appropriate aperture, like f/8 or f/11, as these apertures offer the best image quality. Also, set the ISO to 100 or 200 in order to minimize sensor noise. Finally, experiment by taking several test shots before capturing the final long exposure bulb mode image.

About the Author
Chris Smith is a photography expert and writer for an online magazine.

For Further Training on Long Exposure Photography:

Check out Trick Photography and Special Effects by Evan Sharboneau; a very popular instructional eBook that explains how to do most of the trick photos that often capture attention and amazement from viewers. It also teaches the basics that are essential before moving onto advanced techniques. With 300+ pages of information and 9 hours of video tutorials, it is very detailed and includes extensive explanations of many complicated methods that are very fun to learn.

It can be found here: Trick Photography and Special Effects


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Article from: PictureCorrect Photography Tips

Loop Lighting for Portrait Photography

Posted: 03 Nov 2013 03:41 PM PST

In previous articles, we began our study of lighting patterns for portrait photography with broad lighting, short lighting, and split lighting. Now let’s move on to loop lighting. In portrait photography, this lighting pattern tends to be one of the most popular. It is easy to set up and is flattering to most subjects’ facial types.

Remember that it is shadow that defines form in a photograph. This is such a key concept, we even name all of the various lighting patterns by the shadows they create!

While we always have to think about the light in photography–never forget the shadows!

In a “loop lighting” pattern, we adjust our light so that the shadow of the nose shows up on–and forms a little loop upon–the subject’s cheek, traveling down as far as the corner of the subject’s mouth.

loop lighting for portraits

“Tanisha” captured by Vishwa Kiran (Click image to see more from Kiran)

In our previous studies of lighting patterns, we’ve been discussing the lights and shadows as if the light source was even with the face–the eyes to be more specific. This creates a shadow with no upward or downward slope.

In loop lighting, we want a slightly downward angled shadow (not too much) so we raise the light slightly above eye level. We want the end of the nose to cast a rounded–looped–shadow down from the nose to around the corner of the mouth or even a bit shorter.

The shadow goes off to the side; it is not directly under the nose. The area between the upper lip and the nose remains unshadowed.

Of course, shadows are cast directly opposite from the light, so to get a shadow going to the side and down, we need a light positioned on the opposite side and up.

Start with the light off to the side at approximately 45 degrees from the camera. Then tweak and adjust from there. Depending on the subject’s face, the best angle may be a bit more or less than 45 degrees.

Pose your model. Set your light a bit above eye level, move it to about 45 degrees to the camera, and see where the shadow from the nose falls.

If needed, move the light up and down and side to side until you get the desired shadow shape. Depending on the shape of your model’s face and nose, this adjustment could go from 45 degrees to as little as 30 degrees. Or in some cases it could even go past 45 degrees.

Keep in mind that you want to keep this shadow small. The light should travel down the nose (with the opposing shadow between the nose and cheek) and continue from the bottom of the nose creating a loop-shaped shadow running toward the corner of the mouth.

This lighting pattern is good for people with oval-shaped faces. Because of the downward sloping angle of the “loop” it will visually lengthen the face a bit. And, to a lesser extent, it can give the appearance of slightly higher cheekbones.

Grab a flashlight and your favorite subject. Have them sit on a chair, and start experimenting with light and shadow. Figure out how they have to angle their face for short and broad lighting. Determine where the light has to be for split lighting, and then adjust it to create loop lighting.

Which do you think is better for their face? Why?

The concept of “loop lighting” may seem so basic and easy to understand that you will most likely want to skip the exercise, but don’t. Get comfortable with not only understanding these portrait photography photo tips, but actually doing them. That’s when the learning starts.

About the Author:
Dan Eitreim writes for ontargetphototraining (insert link). He has been a professional photographer in Southern California for over 20 years. His philosophy is that learning photography is easy if you know a few tried and true strategies.


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A Street Photographer’s Unwavering Determination (Video)

Posted: 03 Nov 2013 11:10 AM PST

Street photographer Flo Fox was born blind in one eye. As she approached the age of thirty, the vision in her other eye became fuzzy. And later she started walking with a cane, one leg dragging stubbornly behind her. She saw a neurologist, who diagnosed her with multiple sclerosis. But even that didn’t stop her. Now getting around using a wheelchair, Fox also carries the diagnosis of lung cancer. Despite all of these barriers, she’s taken a camera with her everywhere for 40 years, photographing daily life in New York City.

Watch this short documentary film to learn more about this talented artist who perseveres despite any barriers thrown her way:

Fox bought a camera with her first paycheck when whe was 26. A confident, ____ photographer, she leveraged her strong will and youthful beauty to gain access to sights unseen by many other New Yorkers. She even talked and charmed her way into the World Trade Centers during their construction. Her black and white images of life in Greenwich Village show a bold connection between the photographer and her subjects. Over the years, she’s kept that sense of confidence.

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Though she became disabled at a young age, Fox never let her medical issues get in the way of her strong, artful spirit. Today, as she navigates the streets with caregivers, she still sees the world in a fresh, optimistic light. Unable to press the shutter button herself, she asks her caretakers to take photos with the camera strapped around her neck, guiding them with verbal instructions along the way.

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We all face barriers big and small. This story is a sharp reminder to all of us that determination is the key to success. There are no obstacles too big for Flo Fox to clear. She is and will be a photographer. What’s getting in the way of your photography?


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Article from: PictureCorrect Photography Tips

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