Wednesday, 12 March 2014

Photography: Where to Start

Photography: Where to Start

Link to PictureCorrect Photography Tips

Photography: Where to Start

Posted: 11 Mar 2014 06:51 PM PDT

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So you have decided to have a go at photography? Good for you! Photography is a wonderful way to spend time, whether it is making money or a hobby. The problem a lot of poor souls have when they start is the bombardment of information about different cameras, memory cards, lighting equipment, the list goes on!

bird photography

“Untitled” captured by Mariya Miteva-Simon (Click image to see more from Miteva-Simon.)

In truth, there is no right or wrong brand. There is a bit of good and bad, but at the end of the day I know many different photographers who swear by different brands, and they are all taking amazing images and making quite a bit of money. I also have my preferred brand of choice when it comes to cameras but this will be up to you to decide once you gain a bit of experience and feel what direction you want to go in.

Maybe a good place to start is deciding how serious you are about your newfound love. Try borrowing a camera from a friend first and give it a test drive or go to a camera hire shop. If after that you see a long future rolling in the hills with your new camera, then it’s time to get your own!

Choosing a Camera

Take a look at DSLR cameras that can range from a couple hundred bucks to thousands of dollars. DSLR stand for Digital Single Lens Reflex, and it is your best option moving forward, as you can change lenses to suit your style of shooting. For example, if you are into wildlife photography, you may want a nice long lens so you can stalk the animals from far. If you are shooting portraiture, you may want a nice prime lens to get that crisp sharpness. Diving into lenses is a whole new debate and would need a longer article, so lets get back to it, shall we?

You have now bought your camera and you’re staring at it like it’s going to tell you what to do next aren’t you? To keep it simple, let’s break it down into four simple areas that are the basics of taking great photos: aperture, shutter speed, ISO and composition. If you have the hang of these four, you are well on your way to getting it right.


The aperture is the opening in the lens that lets light through onto your camera sensor or film. It is made up of a series of blades and is measured in F-Stops. The smaller the F-Stop number, the wider the opening that is letting in light. Now this may seem confusing and the wrong way round but you will get used to it. The F number can be as low as F1.4 and go up to f22 on most lenses.

Task: Take your camera, and if you have one with manual controls set it to Aperture Priority mode. It should be a setting with AV (aperture value) or just read your manual. Take a series of pictures, changing the aperture from its lowest setting to its highest to see what happens.

nature photography

“The Water Lily” captured by Sangeeth Sivan (Click image to see more from Sivan.)

Did you notice something specific happening to your images? If you did not, take a picture of something a few feet away with the lowest aperture and again with the highest aperture. Still nothing? Well, take a look at the background. You will see when you shoot with a wider aperture such as f/4, your background will be blurred, but when you shoot the same photo at f/22 most of the image, including the background, is in focus. Oh, so thats how they do that!

Shutter Speed

The camera shutter is, well, basically a shutter that opens and closes letting the light pass through the lens and only hit the sensor for the amount of time you want it to. While you were shooting in aperture priority, you may well have noticed that the shutter speed changes proportionately to how you change the aperture. This is because when you change your aperture, you are changing the amount of light travelling through the lens and onto the camera sensor. If you have a wide open aperture, there will be a lot more light travelling through, so you will use a shorter shutter speed. The smaller the aperture opening like f/22, the longer you can leave the shutter open to let in that light.

Task: Set your camera to Shutter Priority (check your manual) and take a few photos at different settings. Notice how it changes the aperture to allow more or less light. Now find yourself a moving subject. Someone running or your dog playing. Take photos at different shutter values and see how it affects your image. The slower the shutter speed, the more blur you will have in your image. The faster your shutter, the less time for light to hit the sensor, the less blur you will have.

Now you may think, why not just always have a fast shutter, right? Wrong. It depends on the type of image you want to shoot. If you want to shoot at night you will need a long shutter speed to let in the little bit of light long enough to get a good exposure. Or maybe you want to take one of those silky water looking photos? Again you will need a longer shutter speed to allow the water to blur enough to create that effect. Ah!

landscape photography

“Kirkjufellfoss” captured by Joop Versteegh (Click image to see more from Versteegh.)


ISO is the third part of the three major elements you should learn, besides composition, in order to get good photos. ISO is the electrical charge that affects the sensor, creating the effect like in old film when you had different sensitivity ratings. The higher the ISO (old film ASA) the more sensitive and the lighter the image. The drawback to using the ISO to lighten up an image is that your image gets noisier with the higher the ISO. I personally try keep my ISO at 100 unless I just do not have enough light.

Task: Take a few photos of the same subject, changing your ISO each time, and see what happens. If you expose manually at, say, 100 ISO and then bump the ISO up to 3200, your picture will probably be blown out and too light or extremely noisy. Play around with it and see how it all changes.

When you’ve learned the three techniques above, you are well on your way to taking great photos. This gives you the freedom to concentrate on being creative and leaving the technical details as second nature.


Alright, you can now take well-exposed images, but they seem to lack that something special. That photo of your dog in the center of the screen just doesn’t look like the one from the magazine you paged through in the shop! It’s time to look into composition and the rule of thirds.

pet photography

“Untitled” captured by Olga Filonova (Click image to see more from Filonova.)

The rule of thirds was created thousands of years ago by the Greeks, I think it was, and was a technical way of creating the perfect image. Look up the rule of thirds and you will see what you have been missing but the basic idea is to split your image into thirds horizontally and vertically and use the joining points to place your subject of interest, such as a person’s eye or the horizon. The rule of thirds is not a must and can be broken for creative purposes, but it is a good general rule to learn before you break it.

There are various other tips you can follow when it comes to composition, such as foreground interest. If you are shooting landscape images, it greatly helps an image if you have something in the foreground to lead your eye into the image. Do a search for ocean sunrise images in your favourite search engine and see what comes up. What you will notice with a lot of the ones you will find yourself drawn to is foreground interest such as rocks or a piece of driftwood that leads your eye into the image.

I am not going to go into lighting, memory cards, lenses, brands… the list goes on, and each deserves its own article. If this article is enjoyed and well received, I will write articles for each process as well as different types of photography. For now, take out your camera, stop reading, and go shoot! That is the best way to gain experience and find what style of photography suits you. Try as much as you can and don’t be afraid to ask people. The Internet is a big place, and there are wonderful people out there willing to help.

Seriously, you should be shooting right now!

About the Author:
Clinton Cunha ( is a photographer based in South Africa. He also runs an icon design company.

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World’s First Sunset Hyperlapse from an Airplane (Video)

Posted: 11 Mar 2014 04:11 PM PDT

Matthew Vandeputte, a film editor and photographer based in Sydney, Ausralia who specializes in timelapse and hyperlapse photography, recently released a hyperlapse video of a fiery sunset above thick cloud cover that he made on an airplane. The video, shown below, is certainly lovely, but that’s not what has people talking—it’s that Vandeputte claims to be the first person to have ever done it:

While Vandeputte may not be the first person to shoot a sunset hyperlapse from an airplane, a large measure of contention in discussions about the video’s claim to fame seems to hinge on the fundamental difference between timelapse and hyperlapse photography: whether or not the camera is hand-held, a nuance that Vandeputte has been quick to point out to critics.

“Cinema-productions have been shooting similar looking footage for years, [but] I shot this footage using the hyperlapse technique that’s been making the rounds on the internet for the past two years or so,” said Vandeputte. “A hyperlapse is not the same as a timelapse. They are the same basic principle, [but] they employ a different type of shooting,”

Hyperlapse, also known as advanced motion timelapse, is a photography technique that involves capturing a series of photographs and stitching them together into a “fast-forward” video sequence.

In regular timelapse videos, the camera is stabilized during capture and the images are shot with totally consistent framing to give the final timelapse the feeling of passing through time. By contrast, hyperlapse photographers hand-hold their cameras and allow for movement and inconsistent (though similar) framing between each image. This gives the final hyperlapse the feeling of flying through both space and time.

But some may ask, “What’s the point? Why not just shoot video?”

Perhaps the most obvious benefit of hyperlapse (and timelapse) photography over shooting straight video is the potential for extremely high resolution. Shooting stills and stitching them together allows the photographer to create Ultra HD video files with resolutions of greater than 5K. Vandeputte’s hyperlapse, shot during a flight from Gold Coast to Sydney, Australia, boasts an impressive 4K resolution, which translates to 2060p (as opposed to the usual 1080p).

matthew vandeputte world's first timelapse plane flight 30000 feet

Vandeputte cites this experience as the reason that he “always chooses the window seat” on planes.

Vandeputte used a Canon 5D Mark III with a Canon 24-105mm f/4L lens and Sandisk Extreme Pro SDHC and CF cards to capture the stills for his hyperlapse and then stabilized and edited his video in Adobe After Effects and Final Cut Pro X (10.1).

Go to full article: World’s First Sunset Hyperlapse from an Airplane (Video)

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Article from: PictureCorrect Photography Tips

Jimmy Fallon and Jon Hamm Photobomb the Top of the Rock (Video)

Posted: 11 Mar 2014 02:32 PM PDT

Newly-minted Tonight Show host Jimmy Fallon teamed up with Mad Men star Jon Hamm to very innocently prank tourists on top of New York’s Rockefeller Center, known as the Top of the Rock. Their antics take “photobombing” to a whole new level:

Fallon’s become famous for boyish pranks and being a generally nice guy—unique in the comedy world. This completely inoffensive gag cements that. The two jokesters just wander behind people getting their photos taken and make dumb faces.

Here are a few of our favorites:





Man, to be a celebrity…

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Interesting Photo of the Day: Dew Covered Dragonfly

Posted: 11 Mar 2014 12:24 PM PDT

The stunning image below, taken by David Chambon, has been making its rounds on the Internet because of its sheer beauty. Using a macro lens to allow for a very close up image, Chambon was lucky enough to photograph the dragonfly, which is usually a very jittery insect:

Part of David Chambon’s series of dew-covered insects. (Via Imgur. Click for larger size.)

The weight of the water is enough to immobilize the bug. That’s presumably how the photographer was able to get in close enough to snap this image.

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Simple Product Photography in 5 Minutes (Video)

Posted: 11 Mar 2014 10:40 AM PDT

Jared Polin has created a useful and practical guide to product photography using entirely natural light. His process is far from complex, and he’s an entertaining talker:

Jared’s Product Photography Tips

  • Get in as much natural light as you can.
  • Try to fill the frame as much as possible with the subject.
  • Switch up your angle—standing, crouching and sitting will all produce subtly different effects, and you have to shoot first to see the differences.
  • Changing your angle can also change your background from distracting to simple, or vice versa.

Changing your angle can determine what colors show up in the background.

Polin’s shooting with a very basic setup, using only his Nikon D4 with a Nikon 70-200 f/2.8 VRII lens.

Midway through the shoot, he decides that there’s no such thing as a bad idea.

“You could also put different colored lights or objects in the background to be different bokeh objects that are out of focus and looking interesting back there… I could probably put zebra pillows—which I have—which would then—I’m gonna do it. You stay right there. I’m gonna go get the zebra pillows.”


The zebra pillow was a last-minute call, but Polin loved the results.

He wound up digging the zebra pattern best of all, and noticed that the white actually reflected some light from the window to create separation between the object and the background.

When you’re dealing exclusively with what’s around you, and no external lights or flashes, experimentation is key.

Go to full article: Simple Product Photography in 5 Minutes (Video)

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Article from: PictureCorrect Photography Tips

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